A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct! But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.
Different dog aggression types - There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are: - Aggression towards strangers - Aggression towards family members You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right? Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment. - Aggression towards strangers - What is it? It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.) Why does it happen? There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them.
Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation? What can I do about it? The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals. How does socialization prevent stranger aggression? When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in. The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general. How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?
Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!). In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on. Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves. This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).
Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments. Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually. - Aggression towards family members - There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family: - He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you). This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself. - He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family. What’s resource guarding? Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him. All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks.
More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys. Why does it happen? It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc). To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well. This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively. Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!) Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources. To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say. So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say. You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour. - If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer. - Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively - Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day). Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled? All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them. Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers. Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles. Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed? In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept. Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat. For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult.
You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm. The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats. Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals. Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)
Showing posts with label puppy training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label puppy training. Show all posts
Monday, July 12, 2010
Monday, July 5, 2010
The Good, The Bad & the Ugly of Proteins for your Dog
3 Good Proteins:
Muscle meats
Eggs
Organ meats (such as liver) .
3 Worthless Proteins:
Wheat
Corn
Barley
What's the Point in Knowing This?
Dog food manufacturers must have at least 9% protein in their food (called the Guaranteed Analysis) or they are required to print on the label that the food is not nutritionally adequate.
So how dog food companies cut this corner? They use cheap vegetable proteins like wheat, corn and barley to meet the Guaranteed Analysis requirements AND keep their profits high by not using more expensive meat... all at the expense of 's health.
For more tips on healthy dog food and puppy training check out our other site -
http://puppytrainingguru.com
Muscle meats
Eggs
Organ meats (such as liver) .
3 Worthless Proteins:
Wheat
Corn
Barley
What's the Point in Knowing This?
Dog food manufacturers must have at least 9% protein in their food (called the Guaranteed Analysis) or they are required to print on the label that the food is not nutritionally adequate.
So how dog food companies cut this corner? They use cheap vegetable proteins like wheat, corn and barley to meet the Guaranteed Analysis requirements AND keep their profits high by not using more expensive meat... all at the expense of 's health.
For more tips on healthy dog food and puppy training check out our other site -
http://puppytrainingguru.com
Monday, June 28, 2010
Paper Training Dogs is Simple
What’s paper training?
Paper training dogs is a specific form of house training for your dog: you’re teaching her where in the house is appropriate for her to eliminate (pee or poop). When you paper train your dog, you teach her to only eliminate on newspapers (chosen for their absorbency, ready availability, and cheap cost) which you gather up and throw away after each use.
What options other than paper training do I have for my dog’s house training?
There are two ways of effectively, efficiently, and rapidly house training your dog. Paper training is one; the other is something called crate training.
Crate training is based on a dog’s basic dislike of soiling where she sleeps, and involves restricting the dog’s movement (by putting her in a crate, or small indoor kennel) whenever she cannot be actively supervised.
The difference between crate training and house training?
Paper training and crate training aren’t the same thing. Crate training is where you train your dog to only go outside; paper training is where you train your dog to only go on newspapers.
You cannot train your dog to do both at the same time – the two are mutually exclusive. She’ll get confused, and you’ll only prolong the training process.
You can choose to use paper training as an intermediary step for eventually only eliminating outside (although not everyone recommends this: it’s easier on the dog, and more effective all round, to choose one method and stick with it.)
Why should I choose paper training instead of crate training?
Crate training and paper training are both effective ways to house train your dog.
In general, it’s accepted (by most dog trainers and vets) that crate training is the fastest method of house training your dog; but it requires a considerable investment of time and effort, which is not an option for everyone.
Paper training is the best option for you if:
- You don’t have easy access to a yard (for example, you live in a hi-rise apartment block)
- It’s not easy for you to take your dog outside for any other reason (for example, elderly or unwell people)
- You have a full-time job, or other time-consuming commitment which can’t be got around (meaning that you’re not able to spend the large amounts of time supervising your dog that crate training requires)
- You’re planning on training your dog to go outside the house eventually, but not just yet (for example, it’s the dead of winter with four-foot snow drifts outside)
Crate training is the best option for you if:
- You have a medium to big dog
- You are able to spend a lot of time during your puppy’s first weeks of house training in actively supervising her, and are available during the day to let her out of the crate at two- or three-hour intervals
- You want to train your dog to go outside the house right from the start
Paper training isn’t suitable for all dogs: it really only works for small males and small-to-medium females, since a dog larger than these just produces too much waste for the newspaper (and you!) to handle.
How to paper train your dog?
First, pick a convenient area of the house for your dog to use as the elimination area. Because she’s going to be peeing and pooping in this area, it’s best if you can choose somewhere without carpet: most people choose a corner of the kitchen or laundry (since these rooms usually have tiled or linoleum floors, making hygiene a non-issue.)
Spread newspaper thickly in a corner of this room. At first, you’ll need to make the newspaper area pretty big, since your pup has no idea that she’s meant to go on the paper at all.
To make sure that she’s able to eliminate only on the paper, you’ll either need to restrict her movements to the papered area of the floor (which you can do by erecting barriers to keep her in – if the room you’ve chosen is large or busy, this is probably the most user-friendly option for you), or paper the whole floor (which is a viable option if the paper-room is small and there’s not much thoroughfare.)
At first, your puppy will eliminate pretty much at random on the paper. It’s important for the paper-training process that she only gets to go on the paper – you need her to form a strong association between the feeling of paper under her toes, and relieving herself.
After a week or two, you can begin to shrink the papered area of the floor, allowing her more access to unpapered surfaces (leave the barriers where they are for now so she doesn’t get the chance to eliminate anywhere else.)
Do this gradually, a couple of sheets at a time. If you’ve given her enough time to get used to the paper, she should naturally restrict her elimination areas as the papered area shrinks.
NOTE: If at any time she begins to eliminate off the paper, then increase the size of the papered floor surface to the size it was when she was still eliminating only on the paper, and give her more time to get used to it before beginning to reduce the papered area again.
There’s no need to panic: this doesn’t mean that the paper training isn’t working, it just means you’re moving a bit too fast for your puppy’s capabilities.
Most dogs take a couple of months (eight to twelve weeks) to get used to the paper training method. Until she’s reliably going on the papers only, you should restrict her access to the rest of the house unless you’re actively supervising her- which means 100% of your attention is focused on the pup.
In general, a good rule of thumb is that your puppy is confined to the papered area unless she’s sleeping, eating, or being played with/actively supervised.
Things you should do are
- Praise her effusively whenever you see her eliminating on the paper. Wait 'til she’s done (so you don’t distract her!) and praise her, pet her, and give her a treat.
- If you catch her in the act of eliminating off-paper, this is actually a great opportunity for training development. Interrupt her with a clap, loud verbalization (“Ah-ah-aaaah!”), or slap your open palm loudly on the wall. This will startle her – in most cases, she’ll actually stop mid-toilet and hunch down. Scoop her up immediately and put her on the paper. When she finishes, praise her hugely and give her a treat.
- If you come across an accident after the fact (a wet spot or pile on the unpapered floor), you’ve missed your window of opportunity to teach her not to do this. You can’t tell her off in this case, because she won’t understand what she’s done wrong; all you can do is clean it up and supervise her more carefully. If this is happening a lot, you’ve given her too much freedom in the house and not enough supervision: restrict her access to the unpapered floor, and step up the supervision.
- Feed her at specific, scheduled times (for example, a meal at 8 am, 1 pm, and 7 pm) to encourage her to develop an “elimination timetable”.
Paper training dogs is a specific form of house training for your dog: you’re teaching her where in the house is appropriate for her to eliminate (pee or poop). When you paper train your dog, you teach her to only eliminate on newspapers (chosen for their absorbency, ready availability, and cheap cost) which you gather up and throw away after each use.
What options other than paper training do I have for my dog’s house training?
There are two ways of effectively, efficiently, and rapidly house training your dog. Paper training is one; the other is something called crate training.
Crate training is based on a dog’s basic dislike of soiling where she sleeps, and involves restricting the dog’s movement (by putting her in a crate, or small indoor kennel) whenever she cannot be actively supervised.
The difference between crate training and house training?
Paper training and crate training aren’t the same thing. Crate training is where you train your dog to only go outside; paper training is where you train your dog to only go on newspapers.
You cannot train your dog to do both at the same time – the two are mutually exclusive. She’ll get confused, and you’ll only prolong the training process.
You can choose to use paper training as an intermediary step for eventually only eliminating outside (although not everyone recommends this: it’s easier on the dog, and more effective all round, to choose one method and stick with it.)
Why should I choose paper training instead of crate training?
Crate training and paper training are both effective ways to house train your dog.
In general, it’s accepted (by most dog trainers and vets) that crate training is the fastest method of house training your dog; but it requires a considerable investment of time and effort, which is not an option for everyone.
Paper training is the best option for you if:
- You don’t have easy access to a yard (for example, you live in a hi-rise apartment block)
- It’s not easy for you to take your dog outside for any other reason (for example, elderly or unwell people)
- You have a full-time job, or other time-consuming commitment which can’t be got around (meaning that you’re not able to spend the large amounts of time supervising your dog that crate training requires)
- You’re planning on training your dog to go outside the house eventually, but not just yet (for example, it’s the dead of winter with four-foot snow drifts outside)
Crate training is the best option for you if:
- You have a medium to big dog
- You are able to spend a lot of time during your puppy’s first weeks of house training in actively supervising her, and are available during the day to let her out of the crate at two- or three-hour intervals
- You want to train your dog to go outside the house right from the start
Paper training isn’t suitable for all dogs: it really only works for small males and small-to-medium females, since a dog larger than these just produces too much waste for the newspaper (and you!) to handle.
How to paper train your dog?
First, pick a convenient area of the house for your dog to use as the elimination area. Because she’s going to be peeing and pooping in this area, it’s best if you can choose somewhere without carpet: most people choose a corner of the kitchen or laundry (since these rooms usually have tiled or linoleum floors, making hygiene a non-issue.)
Spread newspaper thickly in a corner of this room. At first, you’ll need to make the newspaper area pretty big, since your pup has no idea that she’s meant to go on the paper at all.
To make sure that she’s able to eliminate only on the paper, you’ll either need to restrict her movements to the papered area of the floor (which you can do by erecting barriers to keep her in – if the room you’ve chosen is large or busy, this is probably the most user-friendly option for you), or paper the whole floor (which is a viable option if the paper-room is small and there’s not much thoroughfare.)
At first, your puppy will eliminate pretty much at random on the paper. It’s important for the paper-training process that she only gets to go on the paper – you need her to form a strong association between the feeling of paper under her toes, and relieving herself.
After a week or two, you can begin to shrink the papered area of the floor, allowing her more access to unpapered surfaces (leave the barriers where they are for now so she doesn’t get the chance to eliminate anywhere else.)
Do this gradually, a couple of sheets at a time. If you’ve given her enough time to get used to the paper, she should naturally restrict her elimination areas as the papered area shrinks.
NOTE: If at any time she begins to eliminate off the paper, then increase the size of the papered floor surface to the size it was when she was still eliminating only on the paper, and give her more time to get used to it before beginning to reduce the papered area again.
There’s no need to panic: this doesn’t mean that the paper training isn’t working, it just means you’re moving a bit too fast for your puppy’s capabilities.
Most dogs take a couple of months (eight to twelve weeks) to get used to the paper training method. Until she’s reliably going on the papers only, you should restrict her access to the rest of the house unless you’re actively supervising her- which means 100% of your attention is focused on the pup.
In general, a good rule of thumb is that your puppy is confined to the papered area unless she’s sleeping, eating, or being played with/actively supervised.
Things you should do are
- Praise her effusively whenever you see her eliminating on the paper. Wait 'til she’s done (so you don’t distract her!) and praise her, pet her, and give her a treat.
- If you catch her in the act of eliminating off-paper, this is actually a great opportunity for training development. Interrupt her with a clap, loud verbalization (“Ah-ah-aaaah!”), or slap your open palm loudly on the wall. This will startle her – in most cases, she’ll actually stop mid-toilet and hunch down. Scoop her up immediately and put her on the paper. When she finishes, praise her hugely and give her a treat.
- If you come across an accident after the fact (a wet spot or pile on the unpapered floor), you’ve missed your window of opportunity to teach her not to do this. You can’t tell her off in this case, because she won’t understand what she’s done wrong; all you can do is clean it up and supervise her more carefully. If this is happening a lot, you’ve given her too much freedom in the house and not enough supervision: restrict her access to the unpapered floor, and step up the supervision.
- Feed her at specific, scheduled times (for example, a meal at 8 am, 1 pm, and 7 pm) to encourage her to develop an “elimination timetable”.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Tips to Stop Puppy Biting
One Simple Tip to Stop Puppy Biting
By Mike Chastain
Many of the times that young puppies bite will be because of behavioral instinct, this is where you have to have puppy training. Biting will be as standard for puppies as it is for walking. However that does not necessarily mean we must agree with this. We do not desire puppies to accept biting and then they will grow up and injure someone. Becoming accountable signifies an individual should train your puppy to stop this habit. Nobody enjoys a dog that bites. It is nearly impossible for a puppy to damage a adult, however they could absolutely harm a youngster.
You'll make yourself a better trainer if you first train your puppy the basic command like stay.Attempt to make your training lessons intriguing as well as appealing both for you and your puppy. This is a lot better if you train your dog for ten minutes at any given time, three times a day, compared to thirty minutes daily. The ten minute program amuses you and your dog and the connection that evolves between you throughout these types of lessons will certainly be timeless.
A great time to train your puppy is for ten minutes before he has his breakfast; after that he thinks that the food is a incentive for his being such a great dog. When you follow this schedule for all three meals the training system will be a excellent success. The easiest period to train a puppy is when it is still youthful. Larger, older dogs which bite can significantly injure a person. Generally, biting dogs tend to be euthanized.
Whenever the puppy bites you or someone else, show your disapproval in an exceedingly clear approach. Increase your tone of voice and say "No!", when you have to force the animal away so it gets the point. In no way be aggressive or inflict pain. You won't want to frighten the puppy. After close to two weeks, your dog ought to totally stop biting. Consistency is essential here, do all of it each and every time. The puppy has to obtain a clear concept.
Michael is an avid dog lover and trainer. Come visit his latest site at http://puppytrainingguru.com You will find information on how stop puppy biting and more here.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_Chastain
http://EzineArticles.com/?One-Simple-Tip-to-Stop-Puppy-Biting&id=4476742
By Mike Chastain
Many of the times that young puppies bite will be because of behavioral instinct, this is where you have to have puppy training. Biting will be as standard for puppies as it is for walking. However that does not necessarily mean we must agree with this. We do not desire puppies to accept biting and then they will grow up and injure someone. Becoming accountable signifies an individual should train your puppy to stop this habit. Nobody enjoys a dog that bites. It is nearly impossible for a puppy to damage a adult, however they could absolutely harm a youngster.
You'll make yourself a better trainer if you first train your puppy the basic command like stay.Attempt to make your training lessons intriguing as well as appealing both for you and your puppy. This is a lot better if you train your dog for ten minutes at any given time, three times a day, compared to thirty minutes daily. The ten minute program amuses you and your dog and the connection that evolves between you throughout these types of lessons will certainly be timeless.
A great time to train your puppy is for ten minutes before he has his breakfast; after that he thinks that the food is a incentive for his being such a great dog. When you follow this schedule for all three meals the training system will be a excellent success. The easiest period to train a puppy is when it is still youthful. Larger, older dogs which bite can significantly injure a person. Generally, biting dogs tend to be euthanized.
Whenever the puppy bites you or someone else, show your disapproval in an exceedingly clear approach. Increase your tone of voice and say "No!", when you have to force the animal away so it gets the point. In no way be aggressive or inflict pain. You won't want to frighten the puppy. After close to two weeks, your dog ought to totally stop biting. Consistency is essential here, do all of it each and every time. The puppy has to obtain a clear concept.
Michael is an avid dog lover and trainer. Come visit his latest site at http://puppytrainingguru.com You will find information on how stop puppy biting and more here.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_Chastain
http://EzineArticles.com/?One-Simple-Tip-to-Stop-Puppy-Biting&id=4476742
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Motivational Puppy Training
When you are obedience training an adult dog there is a balancing act that you must perform. You should motivate your dog to perform the correct behavior and you should correct your dog (e.g. a jerk on the leash) for disobedience of a behavior. Using this formula your dog learns that obedience is fun, but it is also necessary. Too much compulsion and not enough motivation leads to a depressed dog. Too much motivation and not enough compulsion leads to a dog that enjoys obedience, but will only be obedient when he feels like it. When training puppies the formula needs to be altered.
Because they are young, puppies are much more sensitive than adult dogs. Corrections, or compulsion, should be used very sparingly. You must rely heavily on motivation when teaching your puppy obedience.
Many dog owners ask, “How soon can you start training a puppy?” The answer is, right away. At 8 weeks of age you can use motivational techniques to show your dog what certain obedience behaviors are.
The best way to motivate a young puppy is with food. Most puppies love to eat so you can harness that desire to teach them obedience. Grab a handful of your puppies kibble to use as a reward, put him on a leash and let’s get to work.
Pull up gently on the leash while placing pressure on your puppy’s rear with your hand and telling him ‘sit’. The moment his rear hits the ground give him a piece of kibble and tell him what a good boy he is. Do this A LOT. Repetition is key. The more you do this the more it will become ingrained in his little head what ‘sit’ means. Until your puppy understands completely what ‘sit’ means, don’t try this without having a food reward ready. Once he does understand, wean him off the use of food rewards slowly.
Do the same thing for ‘lie down’. Use food to guide his nose toward the ground, while placing a bit of pressure on his back, and telling him ‘lie down’. Be consistent and soon he will understand what ‘lie down’ means.
The most important command to teach him with food is coming when called. Call to your puppy and use whatever you need to get him to you, such as clapping or calling his name. When he gets to you give him his food reward right away. Make it a fun adventure to come when called. Make sure that every time your puppy comes to you he is rewarded in some way. A huge mistake that many people make is to make coming when called a bad experience. Maybe they catch puppy chewing on their shoe so they call out, “Puppy, come here!” Puppy, being puppy, comes bounding over where he is greeted by a spanking. Puppy doesn’t know that the spanking is for the shoe chewing, all he knows is that maybe next time he won’t come when called because there might be a spanking when he gets there.
Just remember, no matter what you are teaching your young puppy, use motivation to get best results.
Because they are young, puppies are much more sensitive than adult dogs. Corrections, or compulsion, should be used very sparingly. You must rely heavily on motivation when teaching your puppy obedience.
Many dog owners ask, “How soon can you start training a puppy?” The answer is, right away. At 8 weeks of age you can use motivational techniques to show your dog what certain obedience behaviors are.
The best way to motivate a young puppy is with food. Most puppies love to eat so you can harness that desire to teach them obedience. Grab a handful of your puppies kibble to use as a reward, put him on a leash and let’s get to work.
Pull up gently on the leash while placing pressure on your puppy’s rear with your hand and telling him ‘sit’. The moment his rear hits the ground give him a piece of kibble and tell him what a good boy he is. Do this A LOT. Repetition is key. The more you do this the more it will become ingrained in his little head what ‘sit’ means. Until your puppy understands completely what ‘sit’ means, don’t try this without having a food reward ready. Once he does understand, wean him off the use of food rewards slowly.
Do the same thing for ‘lie down’. Use food to guide his nose toward the ground, while placing a bit of pressure on his back, and telling him ‘lie down’. Be consistent and soon he will understand what ‘lie down’ means.
The most important command to teach him with food is coming when called. Call to your puppy and use whatever you need to get him to you, such as clapping or calling his name. When he gets to you give him his food reward right away. Make it a fun adventure to come when called. Make sure that every time your puppy comes to you he is rewarded in some way. A huge mistake that many people make is to make coming when called a bad experience. Maybe they catch puppy chewing on their shoe so they call out, “Puppy, come here!” Puppy, being puppy, comes bounding over where he is greeted by a spanking. Puppy doesn’t know that the spanking is for the shoe chewing, all he knows is that maybe next time he won’t come when called because there might be a spanking when he gets there.
Just remember, no matter what you are teaching your young puppy, use motivation to get best results.
Monday, June 14, 2010
6 Tips For Proper Dog & Puppy Training
Try to make your training lessons interesting and appealing both for you and your dog. It is much better if you teach your dog for 10 minutes at a time, three times a day, than for 30 minutes once a day. The 10 minute session amuses both you and your dog and the attachment which develops between you during these lessons will be timeless. A good time to train your dog is for 10 minutes before you give him his breakfast; then he assumes that the meal is a reward for his being such a good dog. If you follow this schedule for all three meals your puppy training program will be a great success.
Giving Commands:
When you give commands use the shortest phrase possible and use the same word with the same meaning at all times. If you want to teach your dog to sit, then always use the word SIT. If you want your dog to lie down, then always use the word DOWN. It doesn't matter what word you use as long as your dog becomes used to hearing it and acts upon it. Unless you are consistent in your use of commands you can never train your dog properly.
What to Teach Your Dog:
Your dog should certainly learn the essentials necessary to good behavior. First of all, your dog should be housebroken. Then he should learn how to walk properly with a collar and leash, after which he should be taught the simple commands of HEEL, SIT, COME, and STAY. Only after a dog has learned these commands is it safe to train him on a leash. Once your dog gets into the swing of his training it is wise to continue to train him in more difficult performances. After all, the hardest part of the job is establishing a communication system so that each of you learns what to expect of each other. Once your dog learns a trick or a command he will hardly ever forget it if you repeat it every so often. Begging, giving his paw, playing dead and rolling over, are entertaining tricks which you, your family and your dog can enjoy to mutual benefit. There are, however, more important lessons first. How to stop dog jumping.
How to Housebreak Your Puppy:
Every house dog should be housebroken. Teaching your dog to relieve himself outdoors or on paper indoors is the most vital part of his early training. You must begin housebreaking while he is still a puppy. Keep in mind the fact that a puppy must be fed more often than an adult dog, and consequently must relieve himself more frequently. Here are some rules in housebreaking a puppy.
Housebreaking Your Puppy Outdoors:
1. Take your dog outside as frequently as possible. If you don't have the time to spend with him outdoors, then tie your dog outside until he has performed his duties.
2. Start out as soon after meals as possible because puppies will usually relieve themselves right after they eat.
3. Keep him outdoors until he does his duty. Once he gets used to the idea that he will be allowed indoors again as soon as his duty is completed, he will take care of the job much sooner.
Housebreaking Your Puppy Indoors:
1. Start teaching your puppy about paper, when he is very young and can hardly walk by himself.
2. Take your puppy to the paper every time you catch him in the act. It often helps to blot some of his liquid errors on the paper and leave that soiled paper on top of clean paper so he will get to know that this is the place for him to do his duty. It usually takes about a week.
Giving Commands:
When you give commands use the shortest phrase possible and use the same word with the same meaning at all times. If you want to teach your dog to sit, then always use the word SIT. If you want your dog to lie down, then always use the word DOWN. It doesn't matter what word you use as long as your dog becomes used to hearing it and acts upon it. Unless you are consistent in your use of commands you can never train your dog properly.
What to Teach Your Dog:
Your dog should certainly learn the essentials necessary to good behavior. First of all, your dog should be housebroken. Then he should learn how to walk properly with a collar and leash, after which he should be taught the simple commands of HEEL, SIT, COME, and STAY. Only after a dog has learned these commands is it safe to train him on a leash. Once your dog gets into the swing of his training it is wise to continue to train him in more difficult performances. After all, the hardest part of the job is establishing a communication system so that each of you learns what to expect of each other. Once your dog learns a trick or a command he will hardly ever forget it if you repeat it every so often. Begging, giving his paw, playing dead and rolling over, are entertaining tricks which you, your family and your dog can enjoy to mutual benefit. There are, however, more important lessons first. How to stop dog jumping.
How to Housebreak Your Puppy:
Every house dog should be housebroken. Teaching your dog to relieve himself outdoors or on paper indoors is the most vital part of his early training. You must begin housebreaking while he is still a puppy. Keep in mind the fact that a puppy must be fed more often than an adult dog, and consequently must relieve himself more frequently. Here are some rules in housebreaking a puppy.
Housebreaking Your Puppy Outdoors:
1. Take your dog outside as frequently as possible. If you don't have the time to spend with him outdoors, then tie your dog outside until he has performed his duties.
2. Start out as soon after meals as possible because puppies will usually relieve themselves right after they eat.
3. Keep him outdoors until he does his duty. Once he gets used to the idea that he will be allowed indoors again as soon as his duty is completed, he will take care of the job much sooner.
Housebreaking Your Puppy Indoors:
1. Start teaching your puppy about paper, when he is very young and can hardly walk by himself.
2. Take your puppy to the paper every time you catch him in the act. It often helps to blot some of his liquid errors on the paper and leave that soiled paper on top of clean paper so he will get to know that this is the place for him to do his duty. It usually takes about a week.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
The Labrador Retriever - The Perfect Dog For Any Family
The Labrador Retriever - The Perfect Dog For Any Family
By Mike Chastain
Labrador Retriever puppies are not just adorable but make amazing family pets. Their distinct cleverness tends to make them fantastic to work with and simple to train if you are certain of exactly what you are doing. A person ought to however, as with any kind of puppy, you want to begin instruction during infancy, to make certain that, one day, your dog will certainly end up being your best buddy. Component one of Labrador puppy training involves housebreaking.
Bathroom coaching is essential. The ultimate way to achieve success quickly, it is best to set a regular program when planning on taking your puppy outside. It is important to utilize a simple command to acknowledge whenever the time is right to relieve themselves. Persistently bringing your puppy outside every couple of hours, with only one, fast command, for instance "go potty", is actually the simplest way to begin. Increasing the time periods will ultimately help to make life simpler, while still giving your puppy the message that relieving himself should be carried out outside the house. Ultimately they will begin to understand exactly what you expect of them. This may very well include just as much training for the pet owner as for the puppy
The following lab training tip you need to concentrate on is walking your pup on the lead. This is certainly something you must get right. Many Labrador retrievers are tremendously strong.Be sure and be relaxed and calm when walking you dog and keep a tight leash with the dog close to you at first.
Even though a lab is quite a powerful and independent dog, additionally it is one who would want to please. What this means is it is very important make them learn to walk alongside you, and never in front or behind. Constantly turn your puppy in the opposite course when he starts to pull on the leash, coming back to your initial path only if he has calmed all the way down. This way, your puppy regards you as being the leader, which happens to be crucial in additional facets of behavior training.
All young puppies chew because they teethe. Another problem to test is biting the moment they teethe. Keep in mind this is a natural thing for dogs. What we have to here is make use of that in-born behavior in a very optimistic way. Quite simply, allow them to bite the correct things. A typical style here (as well as in all canine training) would be to lightly correct undesirable conduct. Do not raise your voice at them or hit them. All this is going to do is scare then and worry is no good as being a training aid (in spite of just what a few dummies believe). Individually, I have found the easiest way is for the pack head to become dominant (be sure you would be the one in charge) but additionally turn everything right into a game.I know lots of people that have done this over time but were very unmindful that it was a "technique"
On the way be sure you guide them what exactly is a suitable thing to bite, which does not consist of people, no matter if carried out play. To strengthen this you have to provide them with many toys or even rope to chew on till their teeth develop completely. Whenever they do bite, lightly correct them and carry on using a toy as an alternative.
Prosperous lab puppy training should have a great balance of physical exercise, and powerful, regular instruction. Always work with the puppy utilizing positive, as well as continuous attitude, in no way using physical punishment to fix unwanted habits. In a short time, you will have a faithful caring dog.
Michael has been writing articles on a wide variety of subjects, but writing about Labs is his favorite subject as he has two, Maggie and Elvis. Both Chocolate labs. Come visit my latest site at http://puppytrainingguru.com/ You will find information and reviews for other Labrador puppy training here.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_Chastain
http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Labrador-Retriever---The-Perfect-Dog-For-Any-Family&id=4323268
By Mike Chastain
Labrador Retriever puppies are not just adorable but make amazing family pets. Their distinct cleverness tends to make them fantastic to work with and simple to train if you are certain of exactly what you are doing. A person ought to however, as with any kind of puppy, you want to begin instruction during infancy, to make certain that, one day, your dog will certainly end up being your best buddy. Component one of Labrador puppy training involves housebreaking.
Bathroom coaching is essential. The ultimate way to achieve success quickly, it is best to set a regular program when planning on taking your puppy outside. It is important to utilize a simple command to acknowledge whenever the time is right to relieve themselves. Persistently bringing your puppy outside every couple of hours, with only one, fast command, for instance "go potty", is actually the simplest way to begin. Increasing the time periods will ultimately help to make life simpler, while still giving your puppy the message that relieving himself should be carried out outside the house. Ultimately they will begin to understand exactly what you expect of them. This may very well include just as much training for the pet owner as for the puppy
The following lab training tip you need to concentrate on is walking your pup on the lead. This is certainly something you must get right. Many Labrador retrievers are tremendously strong.Be sure and be relaxed and calm when walking you dog and keep a tight leash with the dog close to you at first.
Even though a lab is quite a powerful and independent dog, additionally it is one who would want to please. What this means is it is very important make them learn to walk alongside you, and never in front or behind. Constantly turn your puppy in the opposite course when he starts to pull on the leash, coming back to your initial path only if he has calmed all the way down. This way, your puppy regards you as being the leader, which happens to be crucial in additional facets of behavior training.
All young puppies chew because they teethe. Another problem to test is biting the moment they teethe. Keep in mind this is a natural thing for dogs. What we have to here is make use of that in-born behavior in a very optimistic way. Quite simply, allow them to bite the correct things. A typical style here (as well as in all canine training) would be to lightly correct undesirable conduct. Do not raise your voice at them or hit them. All this is going to do is scare then and worry is no good as being a training aid (in spite of just what a few dummies believe). Individually, I have found the easiest way is for the pack head to become dominant (be sure you would be the one in charge) but additionally turn everything right into a game.I know lots of people that have done this over time but were very unmindful that it was a "technique"
On the way be sure you guide them what exactly is a suitable thing to bite, which does not consist of people, no matter if carried out play. To strengthen this you have to provide them with many toys or even rope to chew on till their teeth develop completely. Whenever they do bite, lightly correct them and carry on using a toy as an alternative.
Prosperous lab puppy training should have a great balance of physical exercise, and powerful, regular instruction. Always work with the puppy utilizing positive, as well as continuous attitude, in no way using physical punishment to fix unwanted habits. In a short time, you will have a faithful caring dog.
Michael has been writing articles on a wide variety of subjects, but writing about Labs is his favorite subject as he has two, Maggie and Elvis. Both Chocolate labs. Come visit my latest site at http://puppytrainingguru.com/ You will find information and reviews for other Labrador puppy training here.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_Chastain
http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Labrador-Retriever---The-Perfect-Dog-For-Any-Family&id=4323268
Sunday, May 16, 2010
House training your dog / House training tips for a new puppy
When a new puppy arrives in the house, it’s an exciting time for everyone. In order for the homecoming to proceed as smoothly as possible, it’s a good idea to spend a little bit of time in preparation.
One of the major challenges of dog ownership (particularly for first-time owners) is the issue of house training. If you equip yourself with some rudimentary knowledge and a positive attitude, though, it’s a lot easier than most people make it out to be.
The New Arrival
As soon as you bring the puppy home, take her outside. The excitement of the car journey coupled with the unfamiliar faces, sights, and sounds will have her needing to go anyway – and if you can orchestrate her first toilet break so that it occurs outside, instead of inside, then so much the better. And not just from the perspective of short-term hygiene, either – the more your puppy relieves herself inside, the more likely she is to do it again.
The homecoming is a great opportunity for you to set a precedent for toilet behavior!
- Take her to your designated toilet area, and put her down on the grass.
- Wait while she sniffs around – refrain from petting her or playing with her just yet, because you don’t want her to forge an association between this area and games. She has to learn that this part of the yard is for toilet breaks only.
- When she begins to relieve herself, say the phrase you want her to associate with toilet breaks: “Go pee” or “potty time” or whatever works for you. It’s best if that phrase is short and easily recognizable – and use the same voice inflection each time, too (so that your dog can easily memorize the meaning of the phrase.)
- When she’s done, make a big fuss over her: shower her in praise and affection, and give her a little treat.
When you take her inside the house, the house training regime you’ve decided upon should start immediately.
As far as house training goes, crate training is generally accepted to be the most effective and efficient means of house training a puppy in a short space of time.
What is puppy crate training?
Crate-training is essentially the use of a small indoor kennel (the crate) to confine your young puppy when you’re not actively supervising her.
How does it work?
Crate training is based on all dogs’ inherent dislike of soiling the area where they sleep. Because you’re restricting your puppy’s movement to her sleeping space, she’ll instinctively “hold it in” until she’s let out of the crate (provided you don’t leave her in there too long, of course!)
This is why it’s important that the crate is sized properly: if it’s too big, she’ll be able to use one end as a bed and one end as a toilet, which defeats the whole purpose!
How do I choose a crate?
As a general guideline, it’s more cost-effective for you to choose a crate that’s big enough for her to grow into. It should be big enough for the adult dog to stand up comfortably without crouching, turn around in, and stretch out – but no bigger (so that she doesn’t choose one part as her bed, and one part as her toilet!)
Because the adult dog is likely to be considerably larger than the puppy, it’ll most likely be necessary for you to use a barrier to reduce the internal size of the crate. A wire grille or board will do just fine.
Alternatively, you can use a cheap crate (or even make one yourself) and replace it with a larger model as your puppy grows.
Using the crate for house training
Crate training works like this: your puppy is in that crate at all times unless she’s sleeping, eating, outside with you going to the toilet, or being played with (active supervision.)
You’ll need to be consistent, or else it won’t work: you can’t let your puppy wander off through the house unless you’re focusing your complete attention on her.
If you allow her access to the house before she’s thoroughly house trained, you’re basically encouraging her to relieve herself inside – and remember, each time she does this, it’ll be easier for her to do it again (and again … and again …)
Sample schedule of a morning's crate training
7am: Wake up. Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
7.25: Breakfast time.
7.45: Back outside for another toilet break (accompanied by you, of course.)
7.50 – 8.45: Play-time! Puppy is out of the crate being actively played with, cuddled, etc.
8.45: Outside for another toilet break.
8.50 – 11: Puppy goes back in the crate for a nap
11 am: Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
11.05 – 12.30: Playtime! Puppy is out of the crate being played with and petted.
12:30: Lunch time.
12.45: Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
1 – 3.30: Puppy goes back in the crate for a nap.
… and so on throughout the day
Crate training generally takes one to two months (depending on the breed of your dog and how much time you spend on the training process.) As the puppy grows older, you can begin to reduce the amount of time spent in the crate – but beware of doing this too soon!
Other crate training rules
- Your puppy probably won’t be too happy to go in the crate the first couple of times she uses it. She wants to be outside, being showered with affection and attention, and hanging out with you (of course!) But it really is for her own good – in a surprisingly short time, she’ll come to accept the crate as her own personal haven where she can go to relax and get a couple hours’ uninterrupted sleep. It’s important to persevere: do not respond to any whining or crying.
- The best place for the crate to be is the hub of the household: usually the den or the kitchen, anywhere where people tend to congregate. Just because she’s in the crate doesn’t mean she can’t still feel like part of the household; it’s important for her not to feel isolated or excluded.
- The crate should be a welcoming, inviting place for her to go. Lay a couple of thick blankets or towels on the floor, and place a few toys and a chew or two inside it as well. The door should be invitingly open at all times (unless she’s in there, of course, in which case it should be securely shut.)
Some toilet facts about puppies that will come in handy
- Puppies’ bladders and bowels are so small and weak that they have only a very small window of opportunity between knowing that they need to go, and having that need become an immediate reality. Because of this, it’s imperative that you take her outside as soon as she wakes up (she’ll let you know she needs to go out by pawing the door and whining), and within ten minutes of eating or playing.
- Behaviors that indicate she needs to go outside include sniffing the ground and circling. Again, because she’s only little, she won’t exhibit these warning signs for very long – so as soon as she starts, take her out straight away. Better an unnecessary trip to the yard than an unnecessary wet patch (or pile) on the carpet!
- The maximum amount of time that a puppy can be crated at one time is figured out using the following equation: her age in months, plus one. So, a three-month old puppy can be crated for a maximum of four hours. However, this is likely to be physically pretty uncomfortable for her (not to mention hard on her emotionally and psychologically: it’s tough being cramped up with nothing to do), so you should really take her out at least once every two hours during the day. If she’s sleeping, of course, just let her sleep until she wakes up naturally.
For a more indepth look at house training, as well as a great deal of useful information on canine behavioral problems and the most effective training techniques, check out The Ultimate House Training Guide. It’s the complete dog-house-training guide..
You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking on this link: Click Here!!!
One of the major challenges of dog ownership (particularly for first-time owners) is the issue of house training. If you equip yourself with some rudimentary knowledge and a positive attitude, though, it’s a lot easier than most people make it out to be.
The New Arrival
As soon as you bring the puppy home, take her outside. The excitement of the car journey coupled with the unfamiliar faces, sights, and sounds will have her needing to go anyway – and if you can orchestrate her first toilet break so that it occurs outside, instead of inside, then so much the better. And not just from the perspective of short-term hygiene, either – the more your puppy relieves herself inside, the more likely she is to do it again.
The homecoming is a great opportunity for you to set a precedent for toilet behavior!
- Take her to your designated toilet area, and put her down on the grass.
- Wait while she sniffs around – refrain from petting her or playing with her just yet, because you don’t want her to forge an association between this area and games. She has to learn that this part of the yard is for toilet breaks only.
- When she begins to relieve herself, say the phrase you want her to associate with toilet breaks: “Go pee” or “potty time” or whatever works for you. It’s best if that phrase is short and easily recognizable – and use the same voice inflection each time, too (so that your dog can easily memorize the meaning of the phrase.)
- When she’s done, make a big fuss over her: shower her in praise and affection, and give her a little treat.
When you take her inside the house, the house training regime you’ve decided upon should start immediately.
As far as house training goes, crate training is generally accepted to be the most effective and efficient means of house training a puppy in a short space of time.
What is puppy crate training?
Crate-training is essentially the use of a small indoor kennel (the crate) to confine your young puppy when you’re not actively supervising her.
How does it work?
Crate training is based on all dogs’ inherent dislike of soiling the area where they sleep. Because you’re restricting your puppy’s movement to her sleeping space, she’ll instinctively “hold it in” until she’s let out of the crate (provided you don’t leave her in there too long, of course!)
This is why it’s important that the crate is sized properly: if it’s too big, she’ll be able to use one end as a bed and one end as a toilet, which defeats the whole purpose!
How do I choose a crate?
As a general guideline, it’s more cost-effective for you to choose a crate that’s big enough for her to grow into. It should be big enough for the adult dog to stand up comfortably without crouching, turn around in, and stretch out – but no bigger (so that she doesn’t choose one part as her bed, and one part as her toilet!)
Because the adult dog is likely to be considerably larger than the puppy, it’ll most likely be necessary for you to use a barrier to reduce the internal size of the crate. A wire grille or board will do just fine.
Alternatively, you can use a cheap crate (or even make one yourself) and replace it with a larger model as your puppy grows.
Using the crate for house training
Crate training works like this: your puppy is in that crate at all times unless she’s sleeping, eating, outside with you going to the toilet, or being played with (active supervision.)
You’ll need to be consistent, or else it won’t work: you can’t let your puppy wander off through the house unless you’re focusing your complete attention on her.
If you allow her access to the house before she’s thoroughly house trained, you’re basically encouraging her to relieve herself inside – and remember, each time she does this, it’ll be easier for her to do it again (and again … and again …)
Sample schedule of a morning's crate training
7am: Wake up. Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
7.25: Breakfast time.
7.45: Back outside for another toilet break (accompanied by you, of course.)
7.50 – 8.45: Play-time! Puppy is out of the crate being actively played with, cuddled, etc.
8.45: Outside for another toilet break.
8.50 – 11: Puppy goes back in the crate for a nap
11 am: Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
11.05 – 12.30: Playtime! Puppy is out of the crate being played with and petted.
12:30: Lunch time.
12.45: Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
1 – 3.30: Puppy goes back in the crate for a nap.
… and so on throughout the day
Crate training generally takes one to two months (depending on the breed of your dog and how much time you spend on the training process.) As the puppy grows older, you can begin to reduce the amount of time spent in the crate – but beware of doing this too soon!
Other crate training rules
- Your puppy probably won’t be too happy to go in the crate the first couple of times she uses it. She wants to be outside, being showered with affection and attention, and hanging out with you (of course!) But it really is for her own good – in a surprisingly short time, she’ll come to accept the crate as her own personal haven where she can go to relax and get a couple hours’ uninterrupted sleep. It’s important to persevere: do not respond to any whining or crying.
- The best place for the crate to be is the hub of the household: usually the den or the kitchen, anywhere where people tend to congregate. Just because she’s in the crate doesn’t mean she can’t still feel like part of the household; it’s important for her not to feel isolated or excluded.
- The crate should be a welcoming, inviting place for her to go. Lay a couple of thick blankets or towels on the floor, and place a few toys and a chew or two inside it as well. The door should be invitingly open at all times (unless she’s in there, of course, in which case it should be securely shut.)
Some toilet facts about puppies that will come in handy
- Puppies’ bladders and bowels are so small and weak that they have only a very small window of opportunity between knowing that they need to go, and having that need become an immediate reality. Because of this, it’s imperative that you take her outside as soon as she wakes up (she’ll let you know she needs to go out by pawing the door and whining), and within ten minutes of eating or playing.
- Behaviors that indicate she needs to go outside include sniffing the ground and circling. Again, because she’s only little, she won’t exhibit these warning signs for very long – so as soon as she starts, take her out straight away. Better an unnecessary trip to the yard than an unnecessary wet patch (or pile) on the carpet!
- The maximum amount of time that a puppy can be crated at one time is figured out using the following equation: her age in months, plus one. So, a three-month old puppy can be crated for a maximum of four hours. However, this is likely to be physically pretty uncomfortable for her (not to mention hard on her emotionally and psychologically: it’s tough being cramped up with nothing to do), so you should really take her out at least once every two hours during the day. If she’s sleeping, of course, just let her sleep until she wakes up naturally.
For a more indepth look at house training, as well as a great deal of useful information on canine behavioral problems and the most effective training techniques, check out The Ultimate House Training Guide. It’s the complete dog-house-training guide..
You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking on this link: Click Here!!!
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